The History of Lochee

Old Lochee Book 1911.

From "Lochee" - As it was and is - by Alexander Elliot - 1911

Chapter 12 ARCHAEOLOGICAL.

ALTHOUGH there is nowhere to be found in Lochee itself anything to attract the student of the antique and the historic, there is, nevertheless, in its immediate neighbourhood much that is calculated to arouse interest in things of the past and open up a vista of ancient days and their quaint usages and observances. Opportunity, therefore, has been taken to advert to certain relics which have lain undisturbed by the passage of time, and their purpose, as far as possible, elucidated. Amongst the most conspicuous of these venerable remembrancers is the Druid Circle near the farm of Balgarthno, and not far from Liff Railway Station, on the Dundee and Newtyle line. This circle, which has been a conspicuous landmark since early times, is composed of nine large and four small stones. The exterior circumference, as measured in the line of a small trench by which it had been encircled, is about 45 yards, and the interior diameter 12 yards, the space in the centre being filled "with debris. A writer, describing the circle and its relation to Druidism, states that " it would seem to have been one of those set apart for judicial purposes, as the name Balgarthno in Gaelic is said to signify the town or house of garth, girth, or sanctuary. Concerning these girths, it is well known that the people resorted to them for justice. Hence they were sanctuaries or shelters from oppression or wrong." Upon this principle, according to ecclesiastical law in later times, most churches were held to afford protection even to criminals for a limited period; and in some English churches there were stone seats known as the frith-stol or chair of sanctuary, where those fleeing for refuge were guarded for the time being with all the security the Church could afford. Another circle, it is claimed, accompanied this one, as religious and judicial circles, whose functions were different individually, were always within a short distance of each other.

The Druidical priests seem to have been possessed of almost unlimited power, and enjoyed the highest distinction. In civil and criminal affairs they fixed rewards and punishments, and held supreme spiritual authority over the people and their secular rulers. The Druids, too, acknowledged a Supreme Being, and a tenet they deeply reverenced was the imperishable nature of the soul. Sun worship was their creed, and trees, rivers, lakes, and external nature, in all its varied attractiveness appear to have been held by them in devout estimation. Another writer on Druidisrn says: "Among the objects of Druidical veneration the oak is said to have been particularly distinguished, for the Druids imagined that there was a supernatural virtue in the wood, in the leaves, in the fruit, and above all in the mistletoe. Hence the oak woods were the first places of their devotion, and the offices of their religion were there performed without any covering but the broad canopy of heaven. The part appropriated for worship was enclosed in a circle, within which was placed a pillar of stone set up under an oak, and sacrifices offered thereon. The sites of these places are still to be seen, and so great is the superstitious respect paid to these sacred relics, as they are considered, that few persons have ventured to remove them."

There is no doubt that the circle at Balgarthno, like other Druid centres, had been surrounded with great trees, and that the rites of the order were celebrated there with customary ceremonial. Apart from Balgarthno there were two other centres, it is averred, not far off. One was within the grounds of Mylnefield, Invergowrie, and the other in the policies of Camperdown. Both are about equidistant—that is to say, fully a mile apart—from Balgarthno. The location at Mylnefield was eliptical in form, and consisted of six large boulders—three at the east, three at the west, with a gap between capable of containing an equal number of stones. With reference to the supposed Druid temple at Camperdown, with the exception of a standing stone near west entrance to the demesne not a vestige remains of this reputed scene of ancient formula.

The stone adverted to is smooth, oblong, and of no great size. Amongst former residenters of Lochee and estate retainers a tradition was long-current that a cave or subterranean dwelling had existed quite close to it. The only indication that such might have been the case is the formation of the ground, which is irregular and covered with tumuli. It was not uncommon to find chambered cairns arid underground dwellings in the neighbourhood of Druid stones. Having regard to circles wherein sacrificial rites were observed, a slab of stone was a conspicuous object in that dread ceremonial. It has been conjectured that the temple at Mylnefield was equipped in this manner. Would it be probable, therefore, that the elongated stone which at one time bridged the stream at Dargie, and now stands upright like a mute guardian near the churchyard gate, had been the medium by which that awesome ordinance was accomplished? That, of course, is a mere hypothetical supposition. At the same time it must be tinder-stood that as Mylnefield was only a short distance apart, it is possible the people in the past might have been indifferent to or were ignorant of the usage to which the stone had been applied, and therefore had unceremoniously adapted it to the utilitarian purpose of a footbridge.

THE "DARK STANE" ROUNDIE.

A small circular enclosure, densely wooded, on Menzies Hill Farm, known as the "Dark Staue" Roundie, not far from the site of the old Castle of Invergowrie, derived its name from a large upright block of dark whinstone, standing near its centre, and almost enveloped in foliage. Apparently at one time it had been part of a complete boulder, as the surface of the outer skin was smooth and rounded, whilst the inner surface, where the detachment had taken place, was rough and serrated. It is commonly believed that the block had been split asunder by lightning. Its appearance bore out that impression. As to its purpose there have been many conjectures, but the only feasible one is that it had formed an integral portion of a Druid rendezvous—in all probability an accessory to the temple at Balgarthno. In. 1888, by order of the proprietor of the estate, the stone was broken into road metal, the “Roundie" denuded of its trees, and the ground it occupied utilised for agriculture. The person who was engaged in this work—a servant on the farm—when displacing the stone was particularly careful to examine its foundation. The block, he observed, was "lopsided," and it was evident that those who had placed it there had gone about their work systematically, as it was skilfully propped to prevent it toppling over. Nothing of consequence was found underneath. This person also stated that when levelling the ground, at a depth of about a foot and a half from the surface, he turned over with the plough a quantity of bones. These, which were evidently human remains, were found all over the area that formerly had been covered by the Roundie. That this had been an ancient cemetery is suggested by the remarks of Dr John Hill Burton in some references to ancient monuments. "In digging around them" (the monuments,) the historian says, "human remains have been found in abundance, attesting that they were selected as burial places." And he adds, "Wherever in Scotland there are conspicuous monuments of unrecorded antiquity, we may calculate on finding evidence that it was the practice of burying the dead around them." Innes, dealing with Druid circles, makes similar reference to ancient methods of interment. "For the most part," he writes, "they (the circles) will be found, where the soil has not been disturbed, to have cairns of sepulture within the enclosure. Many of the circles have a stone laid flat in the circumference of the circle, which is generally considered an altar. In this view," he continues," the cairns and marks of sepulture will appear as appropriate to these places of legal and religious meeting as a cemetery to a Christian church." It is well known that in every part of Scotland the memory of illustrious, nameless, and long-forgotten dead have been perpetuated in this way. Chiefs, warriors, patriarchs, and priests, distinguished in their own particular walks in life, and, therefore, deemed worthy of honour, according to rude custom have had their last resting-places signalised by memorial stones or cairns, unadorned by figure, or emblem, or record.

These isolated relics of the ages and their vicinage stand out, therefore, significant—striking. Were they not to the people the most distinctive images in their lives? It was there they met for worship. Edicts for peace or war were promulgated from these centres. Around them assemblages met for all manner of purposes. But, above all, the people, the priests, the great magnates, the leaders of armies, warriors celebrated in arms, met upon these common gathering grounds. It was there that merit was rewarded and justice proclaimed. And it was there, too, that the doom of punishment was solemnly decreed. What, therefore, could be more natural than that the space around these hallowed spots should be endeared to the inhabitants, and that they should finally receive the remains of those who had reason to regard them with reverence?

ROMAN CAMP AT INVERGOWRIE.

The occupation of Britain by the Romans and their attendant conquests are themes upon which the historian and archaeologist have dwelt with supreme pleasure. Every step of the invading legionaries has been diligently traced, and vestiges of their presence eagerly sought after. Wheresoever the conquering Roman went he sowed the seeds of civilisation. He studied the art of war in its highest ideals, and inculcated the strictest principles of militarism. Security he never neglected, and in pursuance of it he laid his plans circumspectly. In the middle belt of Scotland—in the neighbourhood of the valleys of Clyde and Tay in particular—this rule of systematic precaution is made clear. In these areas camps or strongholds were so built that operations, offensive or defensive, could be conducted, and at the same time afford complete supervision over the passes to the Highlands. Cattermille, the camp of the four thousand, was situated in the vicinity of Invergowrie. According to Thomson, the stronghold was built upon the slopes of Gowrie Hill, not far from Invergowrie House, and within the limits of the ancient estate of Bullion. Cattermille, however, was only one of a number of similar guardians of the neighbouring straths. Another is said to have served a similar purpose at Clatto Moor, near Strathmartine, whilst a third occupied a commanding position at Balgillo, Broughty Ferry. It is claimed for the camp at Balgillo that it was the Ad Tavum of the Romans.

To that some demur has been made, and Thomson declares that the camp at Invergowrie was as much entitled to recognition. But be that as it may, it is sufficient for the object in view to state that the camp near Bullion was exceptionally situated for military ends. Though in all probability surrounded with trees, such was its situation 1hat the Tay could easily be seen sweeping westward from the broad expanse of Invergowrie Bay till it mingled with the waters of the Earn beyond Newburgh. Having regard to the camps, there is some dubiety to whom the credit of their introduction should be given. One authority ascribes their erection to Agricola, who commanded the Roman forces in Britain in the year 78 a.d., after his defeat of the Caledonians. Another writer states " that there is no certainty that either of these camps were erected by Agricola, and it is just possible that they were constructed by some division, or other of the army of Severus during his invasion of the country two hundred years after Agricola's engagement with Galgacus." Others again assert that Severus—a monarch of warlike disposition and fond of military achievement, who came to Britain in 208—only improved upon Agricola's martial defences and added to their number. Whether or not these camps were due to generals of experience, we must acknowledge their strategic significance and the important part they played in military operations during a momentous epoch in the early history of our country.

As far as it went, the camp at Cattermille must have been of considerable dimensions. It covered more than eight acres of ground, and in shape it was square. This statement is made on the authority of Maitland, who as recently as 1760 visited and took measurements of the camp. At that date the design seems to have been well defined, as the historian calculated that it had been capable of accommodating a large body of men. After its evacuation by the Romans, who had held it for about one hundred years, it is possible it may have figured at subsequent periods as a camping-ground for belligerents we wot not of. The structures of the Romans were famed for their stability, but occasional occupation would tend to preserve them and prevent decay. At all events, the camp at Cattermille must have been in a fair state of repair in the fifteenth century, during the reign of James II., as it embodied a large contingent of French soldiers— said to number four thousand—who were sent from France to assist that monarch in quelling his rebellious barons. Keltie. in a work entitled " A General History of the Highlands," also adverts to the camp in the vicinity of Invergowrie, which, he states, was connected with another at Harefaulds, some distance north-east. The camp at Invergowrie, he further adds, was safeguarded by high ramparts, and was encircled by a trench. An examination at and around Gowrie Hill has been made, and it was observed in an open space nearby that the ground was irregular. Fifty years ago large stones lay scattered about, but most of these have been removed. From Gowrie Hill westward to the Frog Stone the fields present many undulations, which from their frequency and abruptness lead to the inference that at one time they had been subjected to extensive excavation.
It may here be explained that the term Cattermille is derived from two sources—that is to say, from the Latin quatuor mille and the French quatre mille. Human remains have been found in the neighbourhood, and cists of flat stones have been stumbled upon by the plough. Vases of Roman manufacture, too, have been unearthed; and an urn, artistically moulded, found on the farm of Charleston, flanking Cattermille on the north, was long in possession of the tenant. An interesting picture of camp life of the period is given by Burton. "The Roman fleet." he records. "followed the coast line, and co-operated with the army, or its detachments, wherever it went. . . . The soldiers and mariners would meet together in camp, and tell each other of the adventures they had. encountered, and the marvels they had seen—the one discoursing on the forests they had penetrated, the rugged mountains they had scrambled over, and the barbarians they had fought; whilst the others dwelt on the dangers of the deep and their nautical triumphs." Cosmo Innes, writing of the success of their arms, maintains that " beyond everything that has been done for civilisation the Roman occupation was the means of introducing into our country the Christian faith."

THE CASTLE OF INVERGOWRIE.

The Castle of Invergowrie, of which, with the exception of a few stones, there is not a vestige extant, was built to cope with the exigencies of the period. The ground upon which it stood is in the centre of a field on the farm of Menzieshill, and not far from the mansion house. It was to that stronghold that Alexander I. fled from the conspirators who sought his life at Hurley Hawkin, Liff. For centuries it was the abode of the Barons of Invergowrie. About 1850, before the adjoining field was so freely tilled, the basement of the old keep, for that alone remained of the ancient pile, was sufficiently outlined to afford a fair estimate of its original proportions. These must have been of considerable extent. The base of the bastions, too, was distinctly defined, and the foundations were studded with huge stones, most of which have been broken for road repair. The tenant of Menzieshill of that date, an exceedingly intelligent person, being informed that a certain piece of ground at the side of the old Castle gave forth a dull, hollow sound when jumped upon, thus showing an absence of solidity underneath the surface, ordered the place to be opened. At some considerable depth there were discovered, in front of what had been the south elevation of the building, traces of a paved court, with a large built cavity in centre—indicating, evidently, a draw-well. The name "Sounding Roundie" was afterwards given to this solitary fragment of antiquity. Traditionally it is stated that the Castle had been honeycombed with the usual subterranean emergency passages, but in no part of the ground have any traces of their existence been come upon. Some of the material of the Castle, including weather-worn sculptured stones, it is understood, was built into the walls of the home farm steading when the debris was removed. Alexander I. seems never to have tired of enriching the Abbey of Scone. The Barony of Invergowrie was gifted by that monarch to his favourite ecclesiastics. From its elevation the Castle must have commanded a wide expanse of country in each direction, thereby rendering approach difficult and defence easy. Dr A. H. Millar, in the " Boll of Fame," states that it was from the Castle of Invergowrie that Alexander I. went to quell a rebellion in the north. During the expedition Alexander de Carron, a brave knight, so distinguished himself by his prowess that he enlisted the admiration of the King, who forthwith designated him "Skirmechur," which signifies " Hardy fighter." Hence the famous name of Scrimgeour.

HURLEY HAWKIN—AN ANCIENT HUNTING SEAT.

The name of Hurley Hawkin sounds peculiar as applied to a royal residence. The source from which the designation has been derived cannot be authenticated, and there is just the possibility that it is a corruption of a commonplace colloquial term in use in ancient times. Nor, except as far as local tradition goes, does the structure itself come under the category of notable Scottish historic buildings. It is claimed that it was the occasional residence of Alexander I. That may be conceded; but that it had ever been a palace in the full meaning of the term may be doubted. It is well known that in remote as well as in modern times kings arid noblemen kept up several establishments. The chase was then a favourite pastime, and hunting seats were erected in localities most favourable for engaging in that sport. It is only, therefore, a reasonable conjecture that Hurley Hawkin, surrounded as it no doubt was by great forests, belonged to that type of edifice, and that, whilst the King was enjoying himself, an incident occurred by which his life was jeopardised. Alexander, however, escaped, and fled to the Castle of Invergowrie, which, as already explained, was only a few miles distant, for security. An appropriate sequel to this incident is furnished by Fordoun. Alexander, in revenge, attacked his assailants, and seems to have exacted severe retribution. The old chronicler, adverting to that fact, as quoted by Andrew Lang, states that " he (the King) received the name of ' The Fierce ' for his retaliation on the Celts of Moray and Mearns, who attacked him hard by Dundee, and nearly took his life." An investigation of the venerable ruins was instituted about the middle of last century with the view of ascertaining their extent and conformation. Situated on the summit of a rather steep acclivity in the Den of Gray, and contiguous to the church and churchyard of Liff, it was seen that the stronghold was protected on two sides by deep gorges through which small streams flow.

The basement showed that it had supported a massive circular tower, 43 feet in diameter, which in turn was surrounded by a wall in thickness fully five feet. This wall was detached from the main building about fifteen feet. On the north side, twenty-four feet from the outer barrier, where no ravine interposed, are the remains of a fosse or vallum of stone. On a visit paid in 1911 it was observed that whilst traces of the foundations were still discernible, their general formation was much obscured by the accumulation of debris and the growth of vegetation. When the examination was made in 1850 the conclusion was arrived at that the edifice had been destroyed by fire, as traces of that element were discovered. That is more than likely, for two reasons. In the first place the aggressors, disappointed in their prey, would not hesitate to expend their fury upon the building, and probably slaughter those retainers who were not so fortunate as their King; and, on the other hand, in the melee the building might have been set on fire, as such structures were composed at that time largely of timber, and were therefore highly combustible. Whether its destruction was encompassed when the raid was made upon it in the time of Alexander I. or at a later date no information is to hand.